I’ve been involved in repairs at Yamatomichi for about four years now (July, 2023), and during that time, I’ve truly battled with Merino wool holes.

The main causes of holes in Merino wool are primarily moth damage and, secondly, fraying or thread breakage from rubbing or snagging. Wool is a food source for insects, and moth damage can occur depending on how it’s stored. Unlike synthetic fibers woven from long strands, wool is made by twisting together fine fibers into a single thread, so it inherently has limitations in strength against friction and other forms of wear and tear.

Initially, there was no established method for repairing holes in Merino wool, and even if repairs were attempted, they were very labor-intensive, typically involving attaching interfacing to the back and sewing with thread, making them generally not feasible. However, through efforts to find a solution, the introduction of felting as a technique made repairs a bit easier, leading to an increase in repair requests. Currently, hole repairs, particularly in pants, are one of the most common repair tasks.

Felting repairs small holes and scratches by felting the fibers together with a felting needle, an analog technique. It involves damaging the fibers to some extent to effect the repair, a method rarely used by other manufacturers. However, it’s a method that customers can easily perform themselves with simple tools, aligning well with the culture of ultralight hiking where individuals often modify or create their own gear. Because of this, Yamatodō has adopted felting as a repair method and has introduced it to customers as a viable option.

I feel really happy when customers appreciate the repairs that we can do, which would typically be considered impossible. However, when it comes to holes caused by moth damage, sometimes multiple holes can open up at once. With felting, which requires a certain amount of time for each repair, it can be challenging to handle cases where there are too many holes to repair in a reasonable time frame. This has been a persistent concern for me.

Since 2021, the yarn structure of Yamatodo’s Merino wool fabric has changed from double yarn to single yarn, which requires more delicacy in felting repairs. Sometimes, attempts at felting can backfire and actually enlarge the holes. Because of this, I have been constantly searching for alternative methods.

This applies to all types of repairs, but it’s generally challenging to restore something to its original condition. For items like backpacks, replacing entire parts can make it look nice again, but with holes, partial repairs are often necessary, so it’s difficult to restore it perfectly to its original appearance.

With hole repairs, if the repair marks are going to be visible anyway, I started thinking about ways to turn them into a design feature. Traditional mending techniques, like European darning, which uses needle and thread, or Japanese sashiko, where fabric is layered and stitched together, are not only functional but often look great as a design element, even today. I explored repair methods that embrace the natural wear of fibers and transform it into something visually appealing.

While techniques like darning and sashiko are wonderful, they are also labor-intensive and require custom work for each piece, making them impractical for the repair department to offer as regular services. This led me to explore whether similar results could be achieved using machine embroidery instead of hand-stitching.

However, standard embroidery thread, like the kind used for patches, results in a very stiff finish. It took considerable time to find a way to create the soft, hand-stitched feel.

Through trial and error, I was able to achieve a more natural, softer texture by adjusting the embroidery patterns and threads. Previously, it took around 10 to 20 minutes to repair a single spot using felting by hand. With an embroidery machine, the same spot can now be covered in less than five minutes, significantly reducing repair costs and allowing us to handle a greater volume of hole repairs.

Currently, we only offer repairs with matching thread colors, but for customers interested in a unique look, we’re considering offering repairs with different thread colors as well. Additionally, by using two colors of thread, we can create a distinctive texture, which we’d also like to suggest as an option.

Felting can be risky and technically challenging, especially for those not familiar with it. However, with embroidery, once you learn the proper setup, the process becomes much more accessible. Not only can you repair with custom colors, but you can also embroider different shapes, which adds flexibility. We’re currently preparing to install embroidery machines in our Kamakura and Kyoto stores, where we can carry out repairs while communicating directly with customers. We think it would be a fun and engaging way to personalize repairs together.

Many Yamatomichi customers, especially those who use our repair services, have a deep affection for their gear. We often receive requests to repair items that most people would consider unwearable due to the number of holes. However, these customers want to keep using their items because of the mountains they’ve climbed together and the time they’ve spent with them. This has been one of the most surprising aspects of running the repair department, and we continually learn from our customers about the value and meaning they find in their belongings.

Yamatomichi, as a brand rooted in the spirit of UL hiking, aims to go beyond simple repairs. I hope that our repairs inspire customers to try their own repairs, make modifications, or even create something themselves. While a hole might seem like a negative thing, it could actually spark a positive transformation.

It may sound a bit grand, but this approach to repairing Merino wool with embroidery reflects our philosophy in the repair department.

Of course, it’s ideal if no holes form at all, but if they do, we’d love to help turn them into something unique—like a spontaneous design that adds character to your gear. We’re here to support the journey of making your tools and clothing even more original through these unexpected changes.